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]]>When you shop for a charger, the biggest question that I think you got to ask is how long will it take to charge my batteries. Given enough time in a very tiny weak charger could charge a very very large battery, but who wants to sit around for hours and hours, will you wait for packs to charge you want to get flying.
You're probably used to looking at parameters like the watt rating and here we're looking at the ISDT k2, which has a 500 watt rating across two channels or a 200 watt rating, or a 20 amp rating.
Now if you're not 100 percent sure how to analyze those things and figure out how long it's going to take to charge your battery is that enough for you, is 200 Watts enough? Is 500 Watts enough. But the one we're gonna talk about today, nobody thinks about it well, I say nobody. If you're one of the people who already knows about this, congratulations! But a lot of people overlook it.
So let's take a quick look at how charging works and what the balance function does so that we can understand why the balance charge rate can be such a limitation on your chargers performance. Here we're looking at a representation of a battery it's a 4 cell battery because I didn't want to have more graphics on this blog, all works the same with the 5 cell 6 cell whatever it doesn't matter it all works the same.
We're representing the state of charge of the battery, these batteries are sort of discharged, this yellow bit here represents how charged, it is it's down closer to 3 volts, it would be at 4.2 volts or full charge. Under ideal conditions after you discharge a battery, all of the cells are going to discharge exactly the same amount, and end up at exactly the same voltage. Under ideal conditions, the internal resistance of all the cells is going to be the same, so when we sort of suck current out of them, will suck current out of them equally. In reality this isn't always true, but let's just go with that. If we were to charge those cells the way that charging works is the charger pushes current into the battery through the main discharge lead, which is connected to all the cells and sort of charges them all together.
So the cells all charge at the same rate, they all reach 4.2 volts full charge at exactly the same time, and everything is wonderful. But that's not how it works in the real world. In the real world the internal resistance of all the cells is not going to be perfectly matched, and so even if you start with a perfectly fully charged battery with all cells at 4.2 volts, some cells are going to discharge to a lower voltage than others during normal use. And we can see that represented here, this cell is a little bit higher, this cell is a little bit lower, they're all at a different at state of charge.
Now if we go ahead and charge those cells through the main discharge lead, which is how charging always happens, then what's going to happen? When the lipo charge current flows into the cells through the main discharge lead, all the cells take charge at the same time proportional to their difference in internal resistance. So they'll begin to fill up. We can see here the problem, that occurs, that balancing is designed to solve. So all the cells have charged up at approximately the same rate, but the cell that was at the highest voltage is first to hit 4.2 volts. If we were to continue charging at this point, we would continue pushing current into all of the cells cause that's how charging works, and that cell would then go over 4.2 volts, then it would be in an unsafe condition charging over 4.2 volts, in general is considered unsafe. But the other cells aren't at 4.2 volts, so what can we do? what happens is that the charger continues to charge all the cells through the main lead, but in order to keep the full cells from becoming overcharged, it begins to sort suck current out of the full cells as they begin to sort of go over 4.2 volts and overflow. If you will just sucks it off like your soda is about to fizz over, and you go and you suck it down, that's what's happening with the balance lead. So the current goes in the main discharge lead, it fills up all the cells at the same time, and when one cell is getting too high, the charger pulls current out of the full cell, and continues to do it.
So now we can see these remaining cells begin to get full and when they get full, the charger will begin to subcurrent out of them to keep them from over filling coming over 4.2 volts, and then the final cell will come up to 4.2 volts, and the charging process is done.
Now that is not how most people think that balance charging works, most people think that the charger is pushing current in through the balance lead, charging each of the individual cells one at a time until they hit 4.2 volts. When each one hits 4.2 volts, it's done, and there are a few chargers out there that work that way, but that is usually not how they work, and why don't they work that way I don't actually know, maybe it's complicated to build four little chargers and it's easier to build like one big charger, then a balance routine that sort of keeps it from overcharging. I don't really know why they do it this way but this is how they do it. The problem is that discharging a cell is really slow and inefficient, at least the way that the charger is built. The way that these chargers discharge is they just run current through a bank of resistors, they're basically just converting that charge into heat. Let’s take the big onk and wire wound resisto for example, and I don't remember the watt rating of this thing but it's in maybe tens or maybe even a few hundred Watts. I can discharge a lot of current through this honkin thing. If I put a fan on it and blow a fan on it, I can discharge 7810 amps off of 4s lipo battery and it doesn't overheat or damage itself. This thing is enormous, your charger doesn't have one of those in it, your charger just has a little tiny bank of resistors and those resistors get hot and a little tiny fan blows over them. In order to keep the charger from just burning itself out it can only discharge currents so fast, and that's why when you put your charger into storage mode, if it's charging up, it can go super fast because your battery can take a lot of current. But if you're discharging down, it can only go typically 2 amps as the maximum that they'll do about 2 amps, and balancing is discharging.
So when you go shopping for a charger you don't just want to look at the watt rating and the amp rating although you do want to look at that, but you also want to scroll down and find somewhere in the specifications: the balance current, because the balance current is going to limit how fast you can charge the battery once any individual cell hits 4.2 volts. If your pack is a very big pack like 5,000 milliamp hours 6s pack, let's say that one of those cells hits 4.2 volts and it's full, and now your balance current is 500 milliamps, which is not a great spec, there are chargers out there with that. The entire charging process is now going to slow down to 500 milliamps because you can only put current in as fast as the charger can sip it off the top of the full cell, which means if you've got a 500 watt 20 amp charger, and you're charging that big old battery or cramming 500 Watts into that battery, until the point when one of the cells hits 4.2 volts and then we're sipping 500 milliamps out of the battery, and the whole charging process slows down.
So if you've ever wondered why your charging seems to get super slow right at the end of the charge cycle, this might be one reason why it's happening. There are other reasons that we won't go into.But if your charger has a very low balance current and your battery is very out of balance, or if you have a very big battery, that's a little bit out of balance, then all of that is going to cause the last little percent of your charging cycle to be very very slow.
Let's take a look at another charger: the Hota D6. I've got the D6 duo this is the D6 Pro, what's the balance current is 1600 milliamps is pretty good, any balance current over about 1 to 1.5 amps is pretty good, balance current down below 1 amp is not quite as good, obviously more is better, but you'll have to balance all balance. All of the other considerations that you're taking into account when you're shopping for a charger, but be aware that a lot of chargers don't actually list the balance current on their main product page, you have to download the manual or do your own research, you should be really careful because there are some chargers out there, no names are coming to me but I know they're out there, that have like a really impressive specification in terms of how many Watts they can crank, but a really terrible balance current, and they could take forever to charge your packs, that's maybe you want to stay away from them.
Check the full video here:
]]>If you're a drone enthusiast, RC car racer, or a hobbyist in the world of radio-controlled devices, you know the importance of reliable power sources. Enter ChinaHobbyLine, a trusted name in the industry, offering LiPo batteries that take your passion to new heights. And now, there's even more reason to get excited – the ChinaHobbyLine LiPo Battery Sale is here, featuring an irresistible Buy 3 Get 1 Free deal and price drops of up to 40%!
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]]>The holiday season is upon us, and what better way to spark joy than with the Christmas Super Sale of Chinahobbyline Lipo Batteries? Whether you're a hobbyist, a drone enthusiast, or a tech-savvy individual, these powerful and reliable batteries are set to supercharge your festive season.
During this festive season, Chinahobbyline is offering an extraordinary Christmas Super Sale on their range of Lipo Batteries. From discounted prices to special bundle deals, customers can expect to power up their holiday season without breaking the bank. Whether you're looking for batteries with high discharge rates, extended flight times, or compact designs, this sale is set to cater to a wide range of needs and preferences.
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Don't miss out on the opportunity to grab premium RC LiPo batteries at chinahobbyline.com.
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Happy Holidays and Happy Powering!
]]>You probably know that leaving your batteries fully charged at 4.2 volts per cell is bad for them, but what if you charge your batteries up the day before you're about to go fly, and then for whatever reason it rains the next day maybe and you don't go fly. Should you put your batteries back to storage immediately, or should you maybe it's okay to wait one or two days and just go fly the next day. It turns out that there is no actual right answer to this, it's just a matter of degree . So here's what let's start with what we know because hard information about this topic is actually pretty difficult to come by, and we know that batteries left at storage voltage 3.8 volts per cell for a typical Lipo, they can stay there basically forever and will perform basically as good as the day they were made, and we know that because when lipos are manufactured they are stored in whatever the warehouse on the retailers store. They're stored at 3.8 volts per sell and when you get them they're still brand new.
So how long then can you leave it before it takes damage. The actual answer to that question I go back to a test done by the website lipobench.de, I don't know if they're still doing tests but they were doing battery tests some years ago and they did a test where they found that a battery left at full charge for 30 days at a 5% reduction in performance. So there's a there's like one rule of thumb 5% performance after 30 days at full charge, but the real question is does it matter if those 30 days at full charge are all at once, or whether it's one day at full charge 30 times over the life of the battery and I don't know of data to test that hypothesis. But I'm gonna tell you what I think that the time spent is cumulative the chemical processes that are occurring inside the battery start to occur when the battery is charged up, and they occur progressively over time. So I would think that 30 days consecutively at full charge is just about the same harm as 24 hours 30 times non consecutively, so I think about batteries as the total amount of time over the life of the battery that it has spent at full charge. So when you think about whether to discharge your batteries down to storage voltage or not, ask yourself how much time is this battery gonna spend at full charge over the life of the battery. Think about it like you've got a certain budget of time that the battery can spend at full charge and eventually the battery will either be destroyed because it has its performance has degraded enough that it's not usable anymore, or it will not be usable because you've smashed it into a bando and you've just destroyed it, and that's the thing. Most of the time freestyle pilots and racing pilots destroy batteries way quicker by smashing them and breaking them than by wearing them out from leaving them fully charged for too long. If I was going on vacation for a month, I wouldn't leave my batteries fully charged but I don't really think about” oh should I put them back at storage voltage after 1 day or 2 days”, I just leave them charged up and I go fly when I'm ready to go fly, because those one and two days that I leave them charged up over the life of a battery maybe it's 20 or 30 days, which is about a 5% reduction in battery performance, but I'm probably going to destroy the battery in some other way before the cumulative effect of being fully charged, actually adds up to anything noticeable.
The other thing to keep in mind is that batteries also take damage when you discharge and charge them, the act of charging and discharging the batteries wears them out slightly too. So if you're in a situation where you you know that's why they say a Lipo might have 300 cycles before its capacity is reduced to 70% of new and it's considered to be worn out. So if you've got a battery that's fully charged and you're not gonna fly it tomorrow, and you decide to take it down to storage that's one cycle. So the act of putting them in storage also put some wear on them and you keep that in mind when you're thinking about how long to leave them at full charge versus putting them at storage. Personally I'll leave them for a few days and then I feel like maybe I had to put them at storage, up to maybe a week, but now you're starting to really bite into that budget of time that the battery could spend at full charge before its performance is degraded. I want to destroy my batteries by smashing them not destroy them by leaving it full charge.
In summary, for rechargeable batteries, it's ideal to store them with around 50% charge if not in use for a long time, while non-rechargeable batteries should be used until fully discharged and then disposed of. Always refer to the manufacturer's guidelines for specific recommendations on storing and charging your batteries.
For rechargeable batteries, such as lithium-ion batteries commonly found in smartphones and laptops, it is generally recommended to store them at around 50% charge if they will not be used for an extended period of time, such as several months. This helps to prevent overcharging or discharging, which can degrade the battery's performance over time. If you need to store a rechargeable battery, it's a good idea to periodically check and recharge it to prevent it from dropping below a safe voltage level.
On the other hand, non-rechargeable batteries, such as alkaline batteries, should not be left fully charged for an extended period of time. These batteries are designed for one-time use and do not perform well if kept fully charged. If you have non-rechargeable batteries, it's best to use them until they are fully discharged and then properly dispose of them.
In summary, for rechargeable lipo batteries, it's ideal to store them with around 50% charge if not in use for a long time, while non-rechargeable batteries should be used until fully discharged and then disposed of. Always refer to the manufacturer's guidelines for specific recommendations on storing and charging your batteries.
From October 23rd to 31st, enjoy $50 off on all batteries + extra up to 15% off on select batteries. Don't miss out on this chance to get your favorite items at a frightfully good price! Visit our website today and start shopping!
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2. Available in three color choices, blue, green and red.
The monster truck body comes professionally factory-finished in your choice of three brilliant, durable color schemes. Tough dBoots FORTRESS monster truck wheels and tires add powerful looks and all-terrain traction.
3. Easy body attachment and removal
The GRANITE GROM monster truck body snaps onto the chassis easily, quickly, and securely. It comes off with a simple press-and-release. With no tiny clips to force into place, it's a body attachment system that all ages can successfully manage.
4. Enclosed drivetrain for all-terrain protection
The high-traction 4-wheel drive transmission features rugged metal gears. It carries power from the installed MEGA 380 brushed motor to the wheels through an enclosed drivetrain. The entire power system is well-protected for dependable performance on all terrain.
5. Reliable, high-quality hex hardware
6. Durable 4WD system
A 4WD transmission with robust metal gears carries power from the MEGA 380 brushed motor through an enclosed drivetrain to the tough dBoots® FORTRESS™ monster truck wheels and tires.
7. Independent suspension and oil-filled, coil-over shocks
8. Durable composite chassis
The ARRMA GRANITE GROM 4X4 Monster Truck endures any punishment you can dish out. Impact-absorbing front and rear bumpers are the bash-ready bookends to its strong composite chassis.
8. Powerful Spektrum 2S LiPo battery and Smart charger
Except the Spektrum 2S LiPo battery, there are many replacement batteries for ARRMA 1/18 Granite Grom RTR. Such 2s 1500mAh 100c Lipo battery
If you are looking for higher voltage and capacity for your RC cars, we also have 3s lipo battery 1500mAh 100c for your choice.
The 1/18 Granite Grom Mega 380 Brushed 4x4 Monster Truck RTR is an impressive RC vehicle that combines power, durability, and convenience. Whether you're a seasoned RC enthusiast or a beginner looking to enter the world of remote control fun, this monster truck offers an exceptional experience. With its stunning performance, 4x4 capability, RTR convenience, and durable construction, the Granite Grom is a must-have for anyone seeking adrenaline-fueled excitement. So, unleash the power and get ready to dominate the off-road with the 1/18 Granite Grom Mega 380 Brushed 4x4 Monster Truck RTR!
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ChinaHobbyLine is thrilled to announce its highly anticipated Black Friday sale for RC LiPo batteries. Get ready to take your RC hobby to the next level with incredible discounts on a wide range of high-quality and reliable LiPo batteries.
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The Black Friday sale includes an extensive selection of LiPo batteries, ranging from different capacities and voltages, for your FPV drones, RC cars, RC airplanes, and helicopters, also RC boats. You'll have ample options to find the perfect battery that meets your hobbies.
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]]>The Yokomo RO 1.0 is a Ready-to-Run (RTR) model, meaning it comes fully assembled and ready to hit the trails right out of the box. This allows beginners to get started without the hassle of building a car from scratch, while experienced racers can quickly get on the track and start pushing their limits. With its 2WD configuration, the RO 1.0 offers excellent handling and maneuverability, making it a thrilling choice for both casual bashing and competitive racing.
One crucial aspect of an electric RC car is its battery, as it directly affects the performance and runtime of the vehicle. The Yokomo RO 1.0 requires a specific type of battery to maximize its potential. It is compatible with 2S LiPo (Lithium Polymer) batteries, which offer a great balance between power output and weight.
When selecting a battery for your Yokomo RO 1.0, it is essential to consider a few key factors.
We're going to introduce 2s 7.4v Lipo Shorty Battery Pack with high C-rate and quality Li-Po Battery from ChinaHobbyLine.com, perfect desiged for 1/10 Off Road Buggy like Yokomo RO 1.0 1/10 Electric 2WD RTR.
1st, we have rasing series 2s shorty lipo 4900mAh 120c in stock. The hardcase can fully protect your rc cars from crashing. The discharge rate is 120C Continual and has 240C Burst, which gves enough power for acceleration.
2nd one is CNHL racing LiHV 5200mAh 7.6V 2S 120C Shorty Lipo Battery. Below is the specifications of the battery.
Stock Number: HC5201202HV
Capacity: 5200mAh
Voltage: 7.6V / 2-Cell / 2S2P
Discharge Rate: 120C Continual / 240C Burst
Charge Rate: 5C Max
Size(1-5mm difference): 26X47X96mm
Approx Weight(±5g) : 198g
Output Connector: 5.0mm Bullet Plug to EC3
Balance Connector: JST / XH
Wire (AWG): 12#
Remember to always follow the manufacturer's recommendations and safety guidelines when charging and using LiPo batteries. This includes using a compatible charger, storing batteries in a fire-proof LiPo bag, and never leaving charging batteries unattended.
]]>Chinahobbyline Lipo Battery Buy 2 Get 1 Free Sale: Enjoy unbeatable savings on your lipo battery purchase with Chinahobbyline's current buy 2 get 1 free sale! This offer is perfect for those looking to stock up on batteries or gift them to friends. Don't miss out on this incredible deal! Shop now >
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No.1 Not balance charging the Lipo
It's absolutely necessary that every single time you charge your Lipo battery that it's on the balance charge mode always, the only exception to this is if you have a single cell Lipo battery, there isn't anything to balance because you only have one cell, but any Lipo that has two or more cells within it needs to be balanced charged every single time you charge it, no exceptions.
No. 2 Discharging the Lipo down to zero
Dischargering a Lipo battery down to zero. Energy not only creates a very dangerous condition, but it also will ultimately destroy that Lipo battery. The absolute maximum, the individual cells inside of a Lipo can be discharged is 3 volts per sell, beyond that permanent degradation will take place in that battery.
No. 3 Not giving yourself enough headroom
When you set the low voltage cutoff in your models ESC, all modern ESCs or electronic speed controllers that are designed for Lipo use will have some sort of LVC or low voltage cutoff, which just cuts the battery in use when the voltage of the battery reaches a certain pre programmed limit. Remember we just said in No. 2 that the maximum you should ever drain your battery is 3 volts per sell. But again that's the maximum so we don't want to ever come close to that instead we want to check out what presets the electronic speed controller has for the low voltage cutoff and program one, that's gonna give us enough headroom just in case anything should happen. We have a bit of a buffer there, so the battery cells never reach that 3 volts. Wwe recommend a low voltage cutoff of 3.4 volts per sell.
No. 4 Not using a fully charged Lipo
Let's say you charge the Lipo battery with the intent of going out and using it but instead something comes up and you can't, so the battery just gets set aside to be used some other day in the future. If a fully charged light bolt battery sitting around even for just a few days, it can start to experience cell degradation, and this often comes in the form of swelling or puffing. So never let a fully charged Lipo just sit around if you can't use it in your model, then put it back on your Lipo Balance charger and set it to a storage charge, which will discharge all that extra power out of your Lipo.
No.5 Failing to storage charge your Lipo after every use
Even after using your Lipo battery in your model the battery may contain too much energy or too little energy to be stored away for another day. So it's really important to create the very simple and basic habit of after use put your Lipo back on your charger and set it to a storage charge, this will bring up your battery's voltage to the safe level if there is not enough, or it will bring down the voltage if there is too much and ultimately the balance charge rebalances your cells. So the battery is in a healthy state to be stored away.
No. 6 Buying a brand new Lipo battery
But then not using it right away, all Lipo manufacturers storage charge their Lipo batteries before they get shipped out to be sold , and depending on where you buy it, and who from and how long ultimately that light bow has just been sitting around since the manufacturer storage charged it could mean that that lipo storage charge voltage has slowly dwindled throughout the days weeks or months since that storage charge took place. So by taking that brand new battery and charging it or at least balance charging it, is gonna help bring the battery voltage up to that safe level as well as balance out those cells. If you let that battery sit around too long and you don't use it you could be past your warranty date should you down the road find out there's some other unrelated issue.
No. 7 Not letting your light pose cool down
First of all as you probably know when you store your light bows they should always be stored in a cool dry place. Let's say you just got finished using your light bow and you want to charge it again to play more, it's important to let it cool down first before you recharge it. Ultimately charging a hot Lipo battery will degrade it, and if your Lipo is really really hot after you've just used it in your model, it could mean that the C rating is not adequate for your application or it could also mean that your Lipo battery was discharged too . Going back to point No. 3 ensure that your LVC has enough headroom as a note when it's really cold out you can charge your batteries and use them just fine that cold temperature will not harm your Lipo batteries, but cold batteries just don't retain the same energy that they do under normal ambient temperatures. So in cold weather your battery may feel like it just has less power or less punch. If you're curious if there's any harm to putting your lipo battery in a refrigerator or a freezer, there is, but the real harm is not when the lipo is inside the refrigeration unit, instead it's when you pull the lipo out and it's now colder than all of the ambient temperature, which creates condensation and that can form inside the lipo, which is harmful and unhealthy for the pack. Don't leave Libos in hot cars, do I have to say that and it's so obvious.
No. 8 Buying used lipos
When we buy used cell phones, we don't worry about the battery or how it was charged or used it makes no sense, only in RC, do we have the ultimate control of our batteries ? That means when you buy a used Lipo batterydon't know how it was used or abused or charged or discharged or where it was stored or where it wasn't. That's why unless you're absolutely certain of the history of a used battery it's not a good idea to buy used lightbos if you can help it. Now here are some exceptions like Spectrum's Smart Battery technology where their lightbos are now coming with a micro chip that will relay the data of the battery's history , that information could be really handy if you were trying to buy those type of batteries used.
No. 9 Letting Lipo batteries sit around too long unused, unchecked and unbalanced charged
If for whatever reason, you have lipo batteries that are gonna be sitting around without any use for months or maybe even years until you can use them again, it's really important to at least every 6 months stick that battery on the balance charger, rebalance the cells in that pack and bring its voltage back to a healthy state even better practice would be just to take a cell checker , and plug your light bow into that cell checker maybe every two to three months, quarterly and ensure those cells look okay if they aren't then put them on the balance charger. Lipos that just sit around idle slowly drain energy, and eventually those cells can drain down to a really unsafe voltage, that's why a good old fashioned storage charge on that idle battery can help bring it back up to a healthy state.
No. 10 Throwing away Lipo batteries that still contain energy
Lipo batteries are perfectly safe and fine to just toss in your trash, and go to your local land fill, but first the battery must have 100 percent of its energy drained out of it before you can throw it away. If that battery still has energy in it it's a huge fire risk for your local garbage company who will compact the trash, either in the garbage truck or at the local landfill, so that's why before you toss that Lipo in the trash completely drain it of all of its energy. For more information on how to drain a Lipo battery down to 0.
That's our top 10 list of lipo mistakes and how to avoid them. Some of these practices are really minor and if you turn them into habits you can create a lifetime of happy, healthy and safe lipo battery use. If you have any questions please leave us a comment down below!
]]>October is synonymous with fall colors, cooler weather, and exciting discounts. If you are a drone enthusiast or RC hobbyist, you're in luck! ChinaHobbyLine, a leading manufacturer of LiPo batteries, is hosting a thrilling October LiPo Battery Sale. In this blog post, we will dive into the details of this sale and explore why it's an event you don't want to miss. Shop now >
Offer Highlights:
This BNF Basic version model includes a factory-balanced and installed 12-blade 70mm fan, matched to a larger 1900Kv brushless inrunner motor, plus an 85amp Avian Smart Lite ESC that works together with the optimized ducting to deliver an abundance of speed and thrust. With this updated and upgraded power system, the Viper 70mm now has even better vertical performance and approximately 10% more speed than the previous version making it capable of level flight top speeds up to 120+ MPH and nearly unlimited vertical performance with 6S 3200mAh to 4000mAh batteries. It's also equipped with a factoryinstalled Spektrum AR631receiver featuring exclusive AS3X and optional use SAFE Select technologies. When using compatible AirWare equipped transmitters, the receiver and Smart Lite ESC supply overall battery voltage, current draw, motor RPM, and other telemetry data in real-time — with Smart and non-Smart batteries. With a 7–8+ channel transmitter, you can also take advantage of the optional-use thrust reversing to shorten rollouts after landing and for other special ground handling capabilities. It all adds up to deliver a mid-sized, full-house, and high-performance EDF jet experience unlike any other for low time to experienced jet pilots!
The recommendation battery for Viper 70mm EDF Jet BNF Basic is usually 6S 3200–4000mAh 30+C which will deliver excellent performance and flight times.
There are few thing you should know first before choosing the right battery.
At Chinahobbyline.com, We have few replacement batteries for Viper 70mm EDF Jet BNF Basic.
1. 6s lipo battery 3000mAh 70c graphene lipo battery, you will find the specification of the battery below. However you may need an plug adapter to change to EC5 plug.
The 2nd is 6s 3300mah lipo battery, Below is the specification.
Stock Number | 330406 | |||||
Capacity | 3300mAh | |||||
Voltage | 22.2V / 6-Cell / 6S1P | |||||
Discharge Rate | 40C Continual / 80C Burst | |||||
Charge Rate | 5C Max | |||||
Size(1-5mm difference) | 46X44X137mm | |||||
Approx Weight(±5g) | 535g | |||||
Output Connector | XT60 | |||||
Balance Connector | JST / XH | |||||
Remarks | N/A | |||||
Wire (AWG) | 12# |
The 3rd is 6s lipo battery 4000mAh 65c with EC5 plug. But if you are looking for higher discharge rate, we have same capacity 6s 4000mAh with 70c (140C Burst)
Capacity | 4000mAh | |||||
Voltage | 22.2V / 6-Cell / 6S1P | |||||
Discharge Rate | 65C Continual / 130C Burst | |||||
Charge Rate | 5C Max | |||||
Size(1-5mm difference) | 45X46X158mm | |||||
Approx Weight(±5g) | 650g | |||||
Output Connector | EC5 | |||||
Balance Connector | JST / XH | |||||
Remarks | N/A | |||||
Wire (AWG) | 10# |
Let's find out.
First of all what is drone racing. Drone racing involves flying aircraft like this one, it speeds an excess of 8200 miles per hour, pilots wear goggles to see a first person point of view from the aircraft, and use radios like this one to control them.
A typical race format involves flying a course of gates and flags for two minutes. At the end of those two minutes, pilots are allowed to finish their final lap, the biggest issue however is finishing that 2 to 2 and a half minute race. Battery technology is currently the most limiting factor in drone racing, it means that lithium polymer batteries like this one are about the only option we have, it also means that energy density must be kept relatively constant across all setups. It's forced many pilots to look for more efficient setups often using higher voltage and lower KV motors. Sam from a future here to explain KV, it's simply the theoretical RPM of an unloaded motor per volt. This makes sense using the equation p equal IV, we can keep power relatively constant by increasing voltage and lowering amp draw. We can also see that 4 cell setups of 16.8 volts paired with 2600 KV motors, relatively similar theoretical RPM outputs as that of a 25.2 volt 6 cell setup with 1750 KV motors.
Other advantages of 6 cell include more consistency throughout the entire flight, more torque at the motors making it fly better and also less stressing electronics, which means less energy is lost as heat. We can compare the 1.05 amp hour 6 cell battery, and the 1.55 amp power 4 cell battery and see that they have very similar watt hour ratings. This means they also have very similar weights, making both aircraft fly very similar for testing purposes. Before doing a more direct comparison of 4 cell VS 6 cell, I think it's important to discuss that recent Open Grove race held in California, pay special attention to the two pilots on the right, these pilots are flying 4 cell setups, the four on the left however are flying 6 cell setups. Before going into a more direct comparison of 4 cell versus 6 cell we must first discuss the recent Open Grove race held in California. This is significant because it was the first race to be held since the rule change allowing for high voltage setups. It also featured many top pilots from around the US, and had a throttle intensive course, showing some of the differences between 4 cell and 6 cell setups. This course also forced many pilots flying both 4 cell and 6 cell to overcharge their batteries. Overcharging is the unsafe practice of charging batteries past their manufacturer recommended limits. Lithium polymer batteries should only be charged to 4.2 volts per cell. Standard overcharging charges to maybe 4.35 volts per cell or even 4.4 volts per cell. Most pilots at this race flying six cell charge to those limits. Though some pilots like Vanover the pilot in the top right were even charging their 4 cell batteries up to 4.75 volts per cell. This LED to one battery fire at the race, and shows the advantage of the more efficient 6 cell setups. Pilots flying 4 cell had to do things like limit their power and take tighter lines, pilots flying higher voltage 6 cell setups had a larger margin of error and could push their setups just a little bit more than those flying 4s. By the end of the race a few things became apparent, most notably of which is the competitive edge that 6 cell provides. Pilots flying 6 cell were able to finish most of their races, while pilots flying 4 cell had to make sacrifices. Free fall on the bottom right was flying some of the most efficient 4 cell motors available, these motors are also less powerful than traditional setups, meaning that taking tighter lines is crucial. Vanover the top right has since become more open to 6 cell setup, given his issues charging 4 cell batteries to 6s voltage.
Next let's look at a side by side comparison of a 4 cell and 6 cell setup. Both quads being flown here are built for a nearly ideal comparison, they both use the same exact components except for motors and batteries and weigh about the same, behind the sticks we have professional pilot Zachary Thayer, fly consistent 19 to 22nd lap times. By the end of the flight, we can use his experience and the on screen data to get an accurate idea of the real world differences between 4 cell and 6 cell.
Let's go ahead and skip to the end of the video to hear his thoughts on the flights and look at the data recorded
Here we are at the end of both flights. First on the main screen we'll see the four cell quad land while the six cell quad on the upper left is able to fly longer and complete another lap. The end of flight data shows us that the aircraft was armed for a total of 2 minutes and 39 seconds pulled a maximum of 114 amps, and driver 16 milli amp hours from the battery. This compared to the six silkwad which flew longer pulled a maximum of 64 amps and drew only 170 milliamp hours from the battery shows the increased efficiency of the six cell setup, given that it was able to fly longer and use a smaller percentage of its battery's capacity.
Now let's hear what the pilot had to say about the flight and his thoughts on 6scel: To me it was the two most apparent parts was the full throttle punch out to the split as it was harder to recover and hit that real flat angle you talked about, where I come down and just hit straight that was harder. I think if you watch it you'll see it bobbles a little more, and then the hairpin right after that through the gate, it was getting harder and harder to get up out of that corner. This longer lasting power at the end of the battery is one of the most notable features of 6 cell quads. It's also consistent with the lower amtral on batteries and leads to greater consistency as a nube will discuss next.
The biggest difference I would say 6s was much easier to pilot due to its consistency, that's something that's going to be hard to bring out as we try to make scientific testing, because you feeling more confident. People will say well that's subjective. So racing there is subject it's a mental game on top of an equipment game, so what I would say my biggest difference is when we did the full send with the 6s, I still felt I could go fast , where as here on the consistency with the 4s which is not a full send towards the end of it I was struggling to stay.
Consistency throughout the entire flight is one of the most important things to pilots, because small changes in handling near the end of the flight can lead to crashes.
When the battery sags on 4s, the biggest thing I started noticing is your tune actually gets looser, it's like you're flying at 3s now with the 6s 1300mah lipo for example, I was able to actually still hit my lines easily due to that that was something that just sort of popped into my head, right now is with the 6s as your lowest voltage actually being higher relative to the lowest voltage on 4s, it feels so much more consistent your quad actually does I think fly more consistent.
Just summarize I think that 6cm really is the future of racing as pilot skills continue to increase
and as races become more and more competitive, we must push the limits of technology further
to achieve longer flight times and more consistent flights. But how does all this relate to physics
well it's an exciting new application of a theory that aims to maintain power while also decreasing amp draw for the benefit of our batteries. FPV racing really is a poor man's F1, where consumers must continue to push available technology to maximize performance. I have no doubt the future of drone racing involves high voltage, it's exciting to see theories like this one paired with real world testing that truly change the sport as we know it.
]]>In the past years, the hard case lipo battery with a standard length of 138cm has been used the most in the field of rc vehicles. Now more and more people are starting to use 2s shorty lipo batteries or 3s shorty lipo batteries with a length of 98cm for rc car.Why?They're short with a low center of gravity compared to standard lipo batteries, and it's a lot lighter. That way they can adjust your center of gravity, so it's kind of an adjustment aid, depending on your level of traction.
The weights are different, and they affect the ride characteristics, mainly rear-end wobble. For example, the 5200mah 2s shorty lipo battery weighs 226 grams, while the standard full-size 5200mah 2s lipo battery pack weighs 287 grams, so there is a difference of 50 grams between them.
When you start adding weight to the RC car, it increases traction. So on slippery surfaces, we use bigger and heavier batteries in order to give it better grip. If the RC car has too much traction on some rough surfaces, like our carpet, we should need to use a lighter battery. These are all for better drift effect.
What if we were racing? Then there is no doubt that a lighter battery will be chosen. Because under the same power condition, the smaller the load, the greater the traction we can get, which means that we can run faster.
That's the difference between shorty batteries and standard batteries, so now you see why 3s 2s shorty lipo batteries becoming more and more popular?
So, are you willing to try CNHL's best-selling shorty lipo battery?
CNHL 4900mAh 120C 7.4V 2S Shorty Lipo Battery with 5mm Dean Plug Hard Case
CNHL 4900mAh 120C 7.4V 2S Shorty Lipo Battery with 5mm EC3 Plug Hard Case
CNHL 4000mAh 120C 7.4V 2S Shorty Lipo Battery with 5mm EC3 Plug Hard Case
CNHL 5200mAh 120C 7.4V 2S Shorty Lipo Battery with 5mm EC3 Plug Hard Case
CNHL 4400mAh 90C 7.4V 2S Shorty Lipo Battery with 8awg wire parallel series
CNHL 6200mAh 90C 7.4V 2S Shorty Lipo Battery with 8awg wire parallel series
CNHL 4400mAh 90C 11.1V 3S Shorty Lipo Battery with 8awg wire parallel series
CNHL 6200mAh 90C 11.1V 3S Shorty Lipo Battery with 8awg wire parallel series
The JJRC X12 is a RC quadcopter that is specifically designed for indoor use. It is one of the smallest drones on the market, making it perfect for flying in tight spaces. The drone comes with a built-in camera, so you can take pictures and videos while you fly. It also has LED lights that make it easy to see in low-light conditions. The drone has a flight time of about 5 minutes and a range of 30 meters.
When it comes to the design of the JJRC X12, there is a lot to like. The drone is sleek and stylish, with a black and white color scheme that is sure to turn heads. The drone is also compact and lightweight, making it easy to transport and store.
The JJRC X12 also features a number of impressive design features that make it a great choice for indoor use. For example, the drone has an LED light that makes it easy to see in low-light conditions. The drone also has a protective cage around the propellers, which helps to prevent accidents.
Overall, the JJRC X12 is a well-designed drone that is perfect for indoor use. The sleek design, compact size, and safety features make it a great choice for anyone looking for a safe and easy to use indoor drone.
When it comes to flying, the JJRC X12 does not disappoint. This indoor drone is incredibly easy to control and maneuver, thanks to its 6-axis gyroscope. It can perform a variety of tricks and stunts with ease, making it perfect for both beginners and experienced pilots alike. Plus, its powerful motors allow it to fly quickly and smoothly, even in smaller spaces.
The JJRC X12 drone is equipped with an HD camera that captures clear and sharp images and videos. You can enjoy an FPV (First Person View) in real time through the JJRC X12 app on your smartphone or tablet. The camera also has night vision capabilities, allowing you to capture clear images and videos even in low-light conditions.
The battery is one of the most important parts of a drone. It provides power to the motors and other electronic parts of the drone. There are different types of batteries, but the most common type for drones is the Lithium-ion battery.
Lithium-ion batteries are used in many electronic devices, such as laptops and cell phones. They are lightweight and have a high energy density, which makes them ideal for drones.
The JJRC X12 comes with a Li-Po battery. This type of battery is made up of two materials: lithium and polymer. The advantage of this type of battery is that it is lighter than other types of batteries, making the JJRC X12 easier to fly. In addition, Li-Po batteries have a higher discharge rate, meaning they can provide more power to the motors for longer periods of time.
JJRC X12 is generally equipped with CNHL MiniStar 450mAh 14.8V 4S 70C Lipo Battery, if you are interested, please contact CNHL online store, quality assurance is provided here.
]]>FPV drones come in different sizes that can range from micro to full-size. The battery choice for each size of drone varies depending on factors such as the voltage and capacity of the battery, as well as the drone's weight and flight time requirements. Here are some guidelines for choosing batteries for different sizes of FPV drones:
Micro FPV Drones: Micro drones usually require 3.7V voltage and a battery capacity of about 250mAh. Common battery types include 1S LiPo batteries with C-ratings of 30C-60C.
Mini FPV Drones: Mini drones require a higher battery capacity than micro drones, typically ranging from 400mAh to 1000mAh. Common battery types include 2S LiPo batteries with C-ratings of 50C-100C.
Midi FPV Drones: Midi drones require even larger battery capacities and higher voltage to provide more power. They typically use 3S or 4S LiPo batteries with capacities ranging from 1000mAh to 1500mAh and C-ratings of 60C-100C.
Full-size FPV Drones: Full-size drones require even larger battery capacities and higher voltage to provide more power and longer flight times. They typically use 4S or 6S LiPo batteries with capacities ranging from 2000mAh to 5000mAh and C-ratings of 60C-100C.
When choosing a battery for your FPV drone, factors such as flight time, voltage, C-rating, weight, and size should be considered to ensure the drone achieves optimal performance and the longest possible flight time.
If you are interested in FPV batteries, welcome to contact CNHL to read more.
]]>Chinahobbyline is a popular brand for Lipos (Lithium-Ion Polymer) batteries, which are widely used for powering drones, vaping devices, and other portable electronics. A sale on their batteries could be a great opportunity for customers to save money on high-quality power solutions. Look out for deals on their 1s, 2s, 3s,4s and 4s batteries from 350mah to 10000mAh, which are designed to provide maximum performance and efficiency. Shop now >
Offer Highlights:
This drone is Happymodel's first attempt at an 85mm frame! This whoop comes with a Crazy F405 ELRS HD flight controller, EX1103 KV11000 motors, and Gemfan Hurricane 2023 tri-blade propellers, which have excellent power performance and extremely smooth flight characteristics. The perfect backyard ripper!
When it comes to choosing batteries for the Happymodel Mobula8, there are a few key factors to consider. These factors include weight, voltage, capacity, and connector compatibility. Let's explore these considerations in more detail:
a. Weight: Since the Mobula8 is a micro drone, it is crucial to select lightweight batteries that won't compromise the drone's performance. Opting for lighter batteries will help maintain agility and responsiveness during flights.
b. Voltage: The Mobula8 supports 1S and 2S LiPo (Lithium Polymer) batteries. The voltage selection depends on your flying preferences and skill level. The 1S batteries offer a lower voltage and are suitable for indoor flights and beginners. Meanwhile, the 2S batteries provide higher power and are ideal for outdoor flights and experienced pilots who crave fast-paced action.
c. Capacity: Capacity refers to the amount of power a battery can hold. Higher capacity batteries generally provide longer flight times. However, it's important to note that higher capacity batteries can also be heavier, which may impact the drone's performance. Strike a balance between flight time and weight to suit your needs.
Here are the replacement batteries that recommended at chinahobbyline: 2S Battery 450mah/550mah/650mah.
Capacity | Voltage | Discharge rate | Weight | Plug |
450mAh | 2S/7.4V | 70c | 35g | XT30U |
450mAh | HV 2s/7.6V | 70c | 32g | XT30U |
550mAh | HV 2s/7.6V | 70c | 39g | XT30U |
650mAh | 2S/7.4V | 70c | 49g | XT30U |
CNHL 2s lipo battery for Micro FPV whoop drone offers excellent flight time and remarkable performance, making it a preferred choice for experienced pilots.
]]>Gens ace is a renowned brand known for producing high-quality LiPo batteries specifically designed for FPV racing. With a focus on power, reliability, and consistency, Tattu batteries have become a popular choice among professional racers, It has high capacity, low internal resistance and it is lightweight. It’s rather expensive. Use this in your race event to shave some weight off your drone. It can make a difference! Their batteries offer a high discharge rate, allowing for bursts of speed and quick acceleration. Tattu batteries also prioritize safety with features such as fireproof casings and advanced cell balancing technology.
Next up, we have the Turnigy batteries. In terms of durability and performance, we think it is pretty close to the Gens Ace. The overall life cycle of the battery though is not as good as the Gens Ace. Nevertheless, these are awesome, especially considering you can get them for cheaper.
One major benefit we found with the Turnigy is that the brand manufactures pretty good battery chargers and other battery-related accessories. So if you want to pick a brand that offers everything LiPo battery-related and stay with it for consistency, we recommend Turnigy!
Here is a Gens Ace vs Turnigy test someone else did (Back in 2012). Our observations were quite similar but we feel the Gens Ace has better benchmarks vs the Turnigy relative to his findings. It may have to do with the year in question:
CNHL (China Hobby Line): CNHL has gained recognition for offering 1S/2S/3S/4S/5S/6S lipo batteries, expecially the 4s LiPo batteries, and 6s lipo batteries that strike a balance between performance and value. Their batteries are known for providing ample power while maintaining a reasonable price point. CNHL batteries also offer good longevity, making them suitable for both racing and freestyle flying. With a wide range of capacities and voltage options, FPV drone enthusiasts can find the perfect CNHL battery to suit their needs. It’s not the cheapest, but it is certainly affordable, especially since you will need a lot of LiPo batteries. In terms of quality, many people swear by it. In fact, it ranked 2nd in the 2020 Drone Racing International FPV freestyle go-to battery poll.
Reason for voting: The best-selling brand of RC lipo batteries on Amazon.
Huizhou Zeee Power Co, Ltd., produces high-quality Li-Po, LiFePO4 rechargeable batteries and relevant accessories. They offer an affordable variety of quality RC batteries that can be used in radio-controlled boats, planes, vehicles and helicopters, etc.
Zeee Power Lipo batteries offer excellent performance at high discharge rate and low temperature, flat discharge curve, and power your RC models, to reach the top speed with the most stability. Zeee 2S Lipo Battery 7.4V 50C 5200mAh RC lipo batteries are the most favored ones among its users.
What is an SMC LiPo Battery? SMC LiPo (Lithium Polymer) batteries are a type of rechargeable battery that utilize lithium-ion technology. What sets them apart from conventional lithium-ion batteries is their unique design and construction. LiPo batteries are known for their high energy density, lightweight nature, and excellent power-to-weight ratio. They consist of multiple cells, each containing a positive electrode made of a lithium compound and a negative electrode made of carbon.
Price
First and foremost, how much are you ready to pay? Some brands are more expensive than others. While the adage “you get what you pay for” is generally useful, we ask you to hold on before deciding to purchase the most expensive LiPos out there just because they are expensive. Though we don’t endorse buying cheap Chinese knockoffs off eBay, don’t fall for the “appeal to wealth” fallacy. From our research and experience with different LiPo brands, it is hardly useful.
Durability
This is an important consideration. How long will the battery last before puffing out and becoming absolutely useless? (This is assuming you have taken care of your LiPos well of course) We’ve found out that some battery brands tend to last longer than others. This is true in terms of number of cycles and also when used in rough conditions like putting them through large power draws.
Availability in different configurations
Another thing to note is that not all battery brands manufacture the exact same configuration you are looking for. If you are looking for a specific battery with a specific capacity and C rating, you may have to sacrifice your freedom of buying from a specific brand.
However, if you are tad bit more flexible with your builds, most manufacturers offer batteries that fall under similar categories anyway, with slight differences.
The most important difference you may encounter with different brands is the type of connector. If you can’t connect the battery, what’s the point? X-T60 and deans are some of the most common types of connectors that come with LiPo batteries these days.
It is possible to work around this problem by making your own connectors. Cutting and soldering the type of connector you want to any battery brand is a good solution. Nevertheless, it can be a pain. Choose a LiPo brand that can get you up and running with minimum hassle.
Performance
Performance? Yes! Different brands may manufacture batteries with the exact same configuration and yet, the batteries may perform different. What does “performance” mean in this context? Let’s be specific:
How much flight time or run time the battery will offer, with each charge?
How much power the battery is capable of generating? Two batteries from different brands may have the same C rating, but you would often notice that your craft performs better on one instead of the other.
Note: Performance is especially important if you are planning on doing competitive RC racing.
]]>Here's what I would recommend you do, when you buy batteries, whatever size batteries you buy, start to notice the internal resistance of the batteries when they are brand new, and you will start to fill in for yourself, what a good versus a bad milleon value is. Now bear in mind that when you measure internal resistance two things affect the internal resistance that must be controlled for: No. 1 is the temperature a cold battery has much higher internal resistance, a warm battery has much lower internal resistance.The best thing to do is to have the batteries inside at room temperature and in in most of the world in much of the world that flies FPV anyway you'll have climate control of some kind and your internal temperature will be relatively stable, that's not always going to be true but what you want to do is you want to always have the batteries at approximately the same temperature when you measure the internal resistance, otherwise you'll throw off the results. You should know that when people talk about internal resistance like manufacturers, the standard is to measure the internal resistance at a temperature of about 19 degrees Celsius, I I couldn't guarantee you that everyone uses that standard but that's sort of the standard room temperature and that's what I would assume if somebody said my battery has a certain internal resistance, I would assume they were talking about 19 degrees Celsius or very very close to that. So, the other thing is the state of charge of the battery, an empty battery will have higher internal resistance a full battery will have lower internal resistance, so the standard is to measure internal resistance at full charge, if you look at your batteries, if you have a charger that shows internal resistance while it is charging at the beginning of the charge, you'll see ridiculously high numbers and then as the battery fills up the internal resistance will go down, now some chargers have a separate internal resistance function that will measure the internal resistance independent of charging the battery, in that case you would just complete a full charge then you would measure the internal resistance good done. Many chargers though, only show internal resistance while they are charging which is annoying because you have to like catch the battery at the end of the charge cycle or you could take a fully charged battery and set the if you charge the battery to 4.2 volts tell the charger to charge it to 4.21 volts, that way, it'll do just a little bit of an additional charge cycle and show the resistance. But then measure the internal resistance controlling for temperature and at full charge, and then just start to you build a mental or even you could make notes and physically write it down of what your battery's internal resistance is when they are brand new, and what I would do is I would write down the C rating the internal resistance, and then as the milliamp powers, and then as the battery ages you'll see that internal resistance go up and when you have a battery that you're like damn this thing sucks I can't fly this anymore, do that again and note its internal resistance and you will sort of build a range for you. It is both a safety issue and a performance issue it's a safety issue because when the internal resistance is too high the battery will heat up during charging and could overheat and go into Thermal overload.
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Get Ready to Power Up Your RC Toys! Are you looking for a great deal on RC batteries? Look no further than Chinahobbyline's fall sale! With a wide selection of high-quality batteries for all your RC needs, you can save big on your next purchase. From FPV to RC airplane Chinahobbyline has you covered. Don't miss out on this amazing opportunity to power up your RC toys at a fraction of the cost. Shop now and save!
Offer Highlights:
1. Over 50+ batteries are on sale, such as our black series 6s 1300mah, 6s 1500mah and 4s 1500mah, also G+ seires such as 6s 2200mah, 3s 6000mah, Racing seires 4s 5200mah 90c and 4s 9500mah and more! Save up to 40%! Check CNHL sale here>
2. 60% OFF flash sale on Friday, starts at 6:00 pm (Beijing time). Be sure to subscribe to our newsletter and get the discount very first!
3. Weekend sale preview: Sign up our newsletter and we will have secret sale: Save $20 for selected batteries for subscribers only.
The sale ends Sept. 20. Shop before they're sold out!
]]>What is the ChinaHobbyLine SpeedyPizza Battery? China Hobby Line has collaborated with SpeedyPizzaDrones to bring you this unique 1200mAh 6S 100c LiPo battery! "Get your pizza there in less than 30 minutes!"
The SpeedyPizzaDrones Team has a funny name... representing a Drone Racing Team based in Italy but including pilots from Italy, Czech Republic, and Japan! This battery gives you all the power you need for stable flights. It offers high discharge rates, which are essential for powering FPV racing drones and other high-performance aerial platforms. The SpeedyPizza battery series is known for its reliability, durability, and long flight times, making it a top choice for FPV enthusiasts.
Key Features and Specifications:
Voltage and Capacity:
ChinaHobbyLine SpeedyPizza batteries are available in various voltage and capacity options, such as Speedy pizza 6s 1200mAh 100c, Speedy pizza 4s 1200mah
This allows hobbyists to select the battery that best matches their FPV drone's power requirements and flight duration needs.
High Discharge Rate: The SpeedyPizza batteries have high discharge rates, typically ranging from 100C to 120C(Max 200c-240c). This allows for rapid power delivery to the motors during intense maneuvers and ensures consistent performance throughout the flight.
Lightweight and Compact: These batteries are designed to be lightweight and compact, reducing the overall weight of your FPV drone and improving agility and maneuverability in the air.
Advanced Safety Features: ChinaHobbyLine SpeedyPizza batteries incorporate advanced safety features including built-in overcharge, over-discharge, and short-circuit protection. These features help prevent damage to the battery and ensure safe operation.
FPVs Compatible with ChinaHobbyLine SpeedyPizza Battery: The SpeedyPizza Battery is compatible with a wide range of FPVs. Here are a few examples:
Racing Drones: The high discharge rate and excellent power delivery make the SpeedyPizza batteries ideal for FPV racing drones. Models like the Diatone GT-R349, Emax Hawk Pro, and TBS Source One are among the many FPV racing drones that are compatible with these batteries.
Freestyle Drones: If you prefer freestyle flying and performing acrobatic maneuvers, FPVs such as the Armattan Chameleon, iFlight Nazgul5, and Holybro Kopis 2 are compatible with the SpeedyPizza batteries, offering a thrilling FPV experience.
Cinematic Drones: If you are into capturing breathtaking aerial footage, the ChinaHobbyLine SpeedyPizza Battery can also power cinematic FPV drones. Examples include the DJI FPV Drone, Iflight Titan DC5, and Holybro Kopis Cinewhoop HDV2.
The ChinaHobbyLine SpeedyPizza Battery is a reliable and high-performance LiPo battery designed specifically for FPV applications. With its excellent power delivery, advanced safety features, and compatibility with a wide range of FPV drones, it is a popular choice among FPV enthusiasts. Whether you are into racing, freestyle flying, or aerial cinematography, the ChinaHobbyLine SpeedyPizza Battery can provide the power you need to elevate your FPV experience to new heights. So, gear up, charge your batteries, and get ready for thrilling FPV adventures!
The SR-71 Blackbird: Incomparable Speed and Scale The SR-71 Blackbird Twin is an extraordinary RC aircraft that pays homage to the legendary SR-71 Blackbird, one of the fastest planes ever built. Embodied with scale details, this replica is nothing short of breathtaking, captivating both aviation enthusiasts and scale model lovers alike. From its sleek lines to the iconic black livery, every aspect of this dynamic aircraft is meticulously crafted.
Key Features of the SR-71 Blackbird Twin 40mm EDF:
The Perfect Battery Fit: Powering the SR-71 Blackbird Twin To unleash the full power and performance of the SR-71 Blackbird Twin, it is essential to choose the right battery. The recommended battery for this RC aircraft is 4S 2200mAh 30+C batteries.
ChinaHobbyLine 4S LiPo Battery 2200mAh 40C
CNHL G+Plus 4s 2200mAh 70C Lipo Battery
Choosing the appropriate battery is crucial for achieving optimal performance and extending the flight time of your SR-71 Blackbird Twin. However, it is essential to follow safety guidelines, manufacturer recommendations, and proper battery handling practices.
The SCX24 40's 4 Door Dodge Power Wagon: A Beast on Wheels The SCX24 40's 4 Door Dodge Power Wagon is an astonishing 1/24th scale RC truck that combines style, toughness, and versatility. It boasts an incredibly detailed exterior design, faithfully recreating the iconic Dodge Power Wagon's features, including the imposing grille, rugged bumper, and eye-catching fender flares. With its rock crawler capabilities, this mini monster truck is ready to conquer any terrain you throw at it.
Key Features of the SCX24 40's 4 Door Dodge Power Wagon:
Batteries available for SCX24 40's 4 Door Dodge Power Wagon
The SCX24 40's 4 Door Dodge Power Wagon is typically compatible with a 2-cell 7.4V LiPo (Lithium Polymer) battery. 2s LiPo batteries offer high power output, excellent runtimes, and are lightweight compared to other battery types. They are a popular choice among RC enthusiasts due to their efficiency and performance.
Battery Capacity: When selecting a battery for your SCX24 40's 4 Door Dodge Power Wagon, consider the capacity as well. Higher capacity batteries, typically measured in milliamp-hours (mAh), will provide longer runtimes between charges. A capacity between 350mAh to 500mAh is commonly used with micro RC vehicles.
At Chinahobbyline, we have 2s lipo battery 350mAh is avaliable for SCX24 40's 4 Door Dodge Power Wagon. Although the length has slight difference, but CNHL lipo has high performance and low IR, fits the Axial 1/24 scale AXI00002T1, AXI00002T2 SCX24 2019 Jeep Wrangler AXI90081T1, AXI90081T2 SCX24 Deadbolt.
Advantages of a 2S LiPo Battery:
The Axial SCX24 1940s Dodge Power Wagon offers a unique take on this off-road classic, as a custom 4-door RC crawler built on the proven, go-anywhere SCX24 platform. It’s an essential addition to any Axial fan’s collection of SCX24 rigs, and the perfect choice for everyone who wants performance and value in an RC crawler.
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Now when you've got cells wired in series that's what the s and 6s stands for 6 cells wired in series, the effect of that is that the cell voltages add up, so for this 6s battery we're at full charge
it's going to be 4.2 times 6 equals 25.2 volts at full charge, and then at full discharge it would be 3.0 times 6 equals 18 volts. However practically speaking, you're gonna want to keep it above about 3.5 volts, which would be 3.5 times 6 equals 21 volts. You're going to be at 25.6 volts when you are fully charged off the charger and start flying the pack, when it gets down to around 21 volts that's when you're going to start thinking about landing, and if it ever gets below 18 volts that's bad news. Then the battery could be damage that's how we apply these numbers and of course you can extend these numbers if you're flying 2s 3s 4s etc, you just multiply by 2 3 4 or whatever instead of 6.
Now let's introduce this charger to the scene because when you're charging batteries is one of the main times that people get things wrong and then the battery lights on fire and burns their house down. The voltage of the battery is one of the main things you need to get right when you go to charge but the good news is that most chargers will handle this for you automatically. So if we plug in the main discharge lead of the battery that is going to have the full pack voltage on it
and we can see that at this moment that is 23.02 volts. One of the things that is challenging about charging batteries is that if you just look at the voltage on the main discharge lead can't always tell how many cells it is, you might think 23 volts well that's 23 divided by 6 equals whatever it equals and that's obviously a success battery, but there's some overlap where like a fully charged 5 cell battery could have the same voltage as a discharged 6 cell battery, it's not always easy to tell. And there's another problem that the charger needs to deal with other than just knowing how many cells the battery is, and that problem is that the charger needs to be able to manage the voltage of the individual cells themselves and that's why if we just the battery up That's why the battery has this, which is called the balance lead, and the balance lead has a wire
going into the battery and measuring the voltage of each of the individual cells, and in addition to this xt60 here, the main discharge lead which has the total voltage of the pack, but not the voltage of the individual cells.
So never charge without plugging in the balance connector, it is essential to safety of the battery and essential to the long life of the battery. Now that we have plugged in the balance lead, the charger can know how many cells there are because it can see the voltage of the individual cells
and it's showing us that there are six cells on this battery, and if we then go to charge, we can see that it automatically detected the cell count as being success.
The next number we're going to look at on the pack is this milliamp hour rating, this battery is 1000 milliamp hours. A great way to think of the milliamp hours is it's like the size of your gas tank on your car you could have a gas tank that holds 12 gallons, you could have a gas tank that holds 50 gallons if you have a great big truck they both hold gas.
But one of them holds more than the other now there's another spec that is related to the milliamp hour rating that is essential to the safety of the battery, and that is the C rate. So we're going to introduce here the concept of C rate, and C rate refers to how quickly you are sucking energy out of the battery, or sucking current out of the battery. If you think about it if you had a
let's go back to that gas tank analogy, if I had a 50 gallon gas tank and I'm pumping gas out of it,
I could have a little trickle of gas coming out of it or I could have a big gusher of gas coming out of it. The way that C rate works is that you take the milliamp hours of the battery, you convert to amps, and then that amps is 1 c, so in this case for this battery 1,000 milliamp hours. 1 c would be 1 amp, for this battery 5,000 milliamp hours, 5 amps would be 1 c, and then you can multiply that. So if 1 amp is 1 c then 2 amps is to see actually the math is super simple if you have 1,000 milliamp hour battery because it's just the C rating in amps. If you have a 5,000 milliamp hour battery, then 1 c is 5 amps 2 c is 10 amps 3C is 15 amps, you're just multiplying the millionamp hours of the battery by the C that you're pulling out.
The way that C rate and milliamp hours come into play here when we're charging is when we change the current setting so the current setting here is going to be how many amps the charger pushes into the battery, and the more amps the charger pushes into the battery the faster the battery is going to charg, but also the more risk there is going to be of fire if something is wrong with the battery. The way that you set that amp rating is to take 1 c, so for this 1,000 milliamp hour battery, that would be 1 amp and we would come down. e would roll that down to 1 amp
and that would be a safe charging rate for this 1000 million power battery for this 5000 milliamp hour battery will be 5 amps and so on.
Now 1SEA charging is safest but sometimes people are in a hurry, and they are willing to trade a little bit of safety for a little bit of speed. I'm not recommending you do that, I'm just telling you that sometimes people do that so if you decided that you wanted to charge at 2C, you would just double that number, 3C you would triple that number. I think that any charging rate above let's say 3 to 5C is where you're starting to get irresponsible, but if you know what you're doing, and you know your batteries are healthy, and most importantly if you are right there to notice when that battery starts to show signs that it's about to light on fire, it may be not irresponsible to charge at up to maybe 3C. 'll tell you about those signs that a battery is about to go poopa to poopa to poopa to poop it in light your house on fire a little later .
Now that you understand how to read the specs on the label of the battery, you know what settings to put into your charger, so that the charger will correctly charge the battery. But safe charging goes beyond just setting your charger specs correctly because where you charge has a big influence on how safe your charging is gonna be. To answer that question, just ask yourself if , my battery were to into flames right now, how would I feel about the things that the flames were interacting with, like this nice wooden bench top, maybe not the best idea. If you've got a fireplace or a wood stove, maybe the best thing to do is to charge inside it. That's where fire's supposed to be. Speaking of places where fire is already supposed to be, what about inside of a grill, this is a popular one for people who live in apartments, maybe don't have anything but a patio as their outdoor space, just get yourself a little small charcoal grill nice metal enclosure and then put your battery charger in it, and charge out on the patio.
In other words, the safest place to charge a battery, is somewhere where there's nothing flammable nearby to catch on fire when the battery lets the flame out. That's why I've chosen this large concrete pad as the location for my next experiment.
The biggest problem with a Lipo fire is that it puts out a huge jet of flame that can ignite nearby flammable objects. The other problem with a Lipo fire is that it puts out a lot of smoke and that was less obvious, because I did my test in an outdoor environment, but if you've ever seen the results of a light bulb going off indoors, just the room fills with smoke and there's smoke damage to other stuff. But the primary thing you're worried about is the fire, that's why we've got this ammo box here, now this is a plastic ammo box I can't find a metal ammo can, I know I own one
but we're going to use this as an example but suffice it to say you shouldn't use a plastic one because plastic will melt and light on fire. But ammo cans are cheap and they're widely available
and they actually make really really good lipo safe charging containers. What you're gonna do is
you're going to open the ammo can up, and there is a gasket that goes around the lid of the ammo can , if you pull out just the sides of the gasket but leave the front, you're going to need to cut the gasket then what that will do is the gasket at the front of the ammo can, will keep this clasp under tension, if you take out that front gasket then it'll just rattle and be loose. But the missing gasket around the sides will allow the smoke to escape. So you don't want to have a completely sealed container there are people who have argued .If you have a completely sealed ammo can and a lipo lights off it could create a pressure vessel and explode. I'm not sure it's quite that dramatic but it's not good, you want to have some vent holes for the smoke to get out but what you want to happen is for the fire to get out. The fire to be sort of self contained within the box and then the fire cools down and becomes smoke and the smoke kind of billows out, that is one of the cheapest most effective ways of creating a Lipo safe charging box. Now if you've got a metal box, it's sitting on a flammable surface, it can still get hot enough to ignite materials. So another thing that some people will do and I don't have an example of this but they'll go to their local hardware store and you can buy sheets of fire retardant, it looks like drywall or sheet rock but it's fire retardant boar. You can actually cut those sheets to shape and line the inside of the box with these sheets, it takes up some of the space in the box, but it does help increase the fire resistance the other thing you can do is you can just put the box on a fire safe surface and away from any other flammable surfaces, the only thing you'll have to deal with if the battery lights off is the smoke but smokes a lot easier to clean up, than a fire that burns your house down.
But if you want the absolute state of the art in lipocharging safety you're going to be looking at this the bat safe that safe box is lined with fire retardant material to keep the heat and temperature inside and this is the killer feature, it has vents on the top with filters to filter as much of the smoke as possible. So you minimize smoke damage to your house the bat Safe boxes have a pass through in the lid to allow charging cables to go through without compromising a safety, so you can have your charger outside and your batteries inside, they can stay protected through the whole charging cycle.
Bat Safe comes in three sizes, I have heard people who with a lot of batteries say that they wish they had bought two of the standard size instead of one of the XL, it's about the same price and the XL is so deep that it can be a little bit difficult to get in and dig through your batteries to find the one that you want. Just about the only downside of the bat safe is the price and the fact that it's out of stock a lot of places. The price when you consider how much it would cost you all up to build your own you may actually not save as much as you think, and of course the price of a Lipo Fires could be devastating, it's up to you.
Now some of you guys are going to notice that I am not following all of my own advice, I regularly charge over there on that wooden bench tub which is a very flammable surface, and I'm charging indoor, so if the fire does come out it could be bad light bocharging is about a trade off between
risk attentiveness and safety, what I mean by that is the more you do to minimize the risk the more you can afford to be less attentive and take more chances with your safety If I was charging outside on a concrete carport inside a barbecue grill or inside a bat safe box, I could just probably just hit charge and walk away and what's the worst thing could happen a battery blows up fire comes out, it's well contained and I come back in them disappointed that I lost a battery, but nothing bad would happen if on the other hand you are not able to do that or you just don't want to do that for various reasons, then you need to be a lot more attentive. The thing is as we saw in that experiment where I popped off my own battery if a battery is healthy, if you are there to notice it will not just spontaneously go with no warning. Usually you will get us some warnings that the battery is about to go you will hear a popping a hissing a crackling or maybe you'll get that fruity smell that I mentioned , you'll go oh crap I need to get this battery out of here ASAP
by the way if you are in that situation, I recommend you get a big heavy set of fireplace gloves
these big heavy leather gloves or welders gloves work, because there have been more than one person who grabbed battery with the intent of flinging it outside or carrying it outside, and while they were holding it, did that and got severe burns on their hands, this is a good thing to have around.
At the end of the day though it is all about risk versus attentiveness versus safety and my take is that the No. 1 thing I can do to keep myself safe is to always be attentive and that's my recommendation to you, no matter when you where you charge. If you're charging anywhere that isn't completely safe, never leave your charging batteries unattended, because you usually will get and always just keep an eye out keep an ear out, you'll usually get a warning that something is about to go wrong.
What about storage do batteries light off in storage, it's not impossible but it's much less likely the most likely time for batteries to light off is when you're charging them because pushing all that energy into the cells stresses them, if there's anything damaged or wrong with them they can then they can go off. But if batteries are healthy and they're at storage voltage, well think about it, how often do battery manufacturing facilities or warehouses holding lots of lipo batteries just spontaneously light on fire it just doesn't happen. Healthy lipos charge within a safe voltage usually are completely unheard. It's only the damaged ones that are then now you're creeping up and they're waiting to betray you.
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]]>Additional Charge Setting Notes: recharging a LiPo below 3.0V/cell may require using a NiMh or NiCad charger setting on the LiPo batteries, as most smart chargers have safety features which prevent a user from attempting to charge a LiPo which is below 2.5V/cell, as this can be dangerous if a standard charge rate is used. Since all we are after is setting a low (and safe) constant charge current to get the LiPo back up to a safe charge level, using a NiMH/NiC ad setting is fine until we get the battery >3.0V/cell. WHEN USING AN NIMH or NiCad SETTING TO GET THE LIPOS ABOVE 3.0V/CELL, ***NEVER*** LEAVE THEM UNAT TENDED. You should not leave them unattended because the NiMh/NiCad end-of-charge detection method is not compatible with Lithium based batteries, and if left on the charger until full, the end of charge state will never be detected and the LiPo battery will be overcharged until it (likely) catches fre and destroys itself.
But no! Your charger has almost no safety checks under the nickel chemistry, so that's a terrible idea! Because it's 2021! We all have smart chargers in this hobby now and you are a smart boy!
So let's do some smart things, We're going to start by going up to our battery type, or it could be called battery chemistry in some chargers, and choose “LiFe“ as known as lithium iron phosphate, which has a lower voltage range than lipos but it still balances, and it'll stop charging the battery before it gets too high, possibly saving your house from a fire, then just make sure to charge the battery really slowly.
I'm gonna use a 0.7 amp charge rate, but you could go even slower if you had a smaller battery. my charger is nearly finished charging it's a really low amp rate and I've only put in 116 milliamp hours. Now the battery is done, and I can go ahead and switch over to the lightbo mode, and then put this battery into storage. Since I'm not going to use it right now.
Now at this point you might be asking, what would if my battery is too low to charge, even for the lithium iron phosphate chemistry. To clear that up, your battery's done, if a Lipo battery is too low for the lithium iron phosphate chemistry, don't attempt to recharge it. You destroyed the battery, you got to just chalk that up as and move on with your life, don't burn your house down,don't charge your battery at all.
That’s is Choosing a high-quality LiPo (Lithium Polymer) battery is crucial for several reasons. Here are the key importance of selecting a high-quality LiPo battery:
Safety: High-quality LiPo batteries are designed with safety features to prevent issues such as overheating, swelling, leakage, or even explosion.
Performance and Reliability: High-quality LiPo batteries are designed to provide consistent and reliable performance. They offer higher energy density, which means they can store more power and deliver it more efficiently.
Longevity: High-quality LiPo batteries tend to have a longer lifespan compared to low-quality alternatives. They are made with better-quality cells and components, which are more stable and durable. They are also less prone to degradation over time, ensuring that they last longer and provide reliable power for a longer period.
Compatibility: High-quality LiPo batteries are often designed to meet specific requirements and standards, ensuring compatibility with a wide range of devices and applications.
Charging and Discharging Efficiency: High-quality LiPo batteries typically have better charging and discharging efficiency. They can handle higher charge and discharge rates without overheating or performance degradation.
In conclusion, customers should choose CNHL lipos for their reputation of producing high-quality, high-performance, and reliable batteries. With a focus on safety, longevity, and a wide range of options, CHL caters to the needs of hobbyists, enthusiasts, and professionals alike.
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