Team Associated RC10 1989 Stealth Car Masami Edition: What Made It Legendary—And How to Power It Today

The RC10 Stealth Car That Nobody Saw Coming

1989, IFMAR Worlds in Australia. The air smells like burnt tires, and everyone’s knee-deep in RC grease. Then comes the twist. The pits are buzzing, everyone wrenching on their trusty 6-gear RC10s—same old setup, same old confidence. Then, Masami Hirosaka rolls in with something that just looks… different. The whole pit area? Dead silent.

Turns out, Team Associated wasn’t just tinkering—they were dead serious. In secret, they’d built a monster—a prototype they called the “Stealth Car.” And this wasn’t just a tweak here or a mod there. It had a brand-new 3-gear transmission, longer suspension arms, sharper shock geometry, and reworked weight balance. They didn’t just tweak the old setup—they tore up the blueprint and started over.

The secrecy? Next level. Covered up before the race, no photos allowed, and even caution tape around the pit space. The only leak? A single photo of team manager Roger, accidentally caught holding the car in the background of a magazine shot. That’s how wild the story is.

Masami’s Legacy, Recreated

Now fast-forward to today. Team Associated they didn’t just revive a kit—they resurrected a legend, piece by piece. Meet the RC10 1989 Stealth Car Masami Edition. It’s not just inspired by the original—Masami himself helped recreate it. From the flame decal to the KO Propo sticker on the chassis, it’s spot-on.

But here's the twist—it’s a kit. No ESC. No motor. No battery. It’s up to you to bring it to life. And the battery? That’s the beating heart. Pick wrong, and you could spoil the magic. Pick right, and you breathe real soul into it.

The Battery Question: What Should You Use?

Back in the day, the car ran on 7.2V NiMH packs. That old NiMH pack? Might as well be a cassette player in today’s streaming world. Today, it’s all about 7.4V 2S LiPo batteries. More punch, steadier voltage, longer run time. The real challenge is this—you need a pack that fits this vintage chassis, keeps the balance right, and doesn’t fry your old-school electronics.

What you’re looking for is a hard case 2S LiPo with the right size, solid safety, and classic-style plugs. Sounds like a lot? We’ve done the testing so you don’t have to.

Top Pick: CNHL Racing Series 6600mAh 7.4V 2S 120C

Want a battery you can count on with no measuring, no modding, just plug and go? That’s the CNHL 6600mAh 2S 120C. The fit? Perfect for the original tub chassis—no mods needed. The plug? Classic T-style, just like the ESCs of the era.

But the real win? It won’t overwhelm your vintage setup, but still delivers crisp throttle response and solid runtime. Whether you’re racing it or just parking it on a display shelf, this pack looks the part—and performs too.

Other Battery Options Worth Considering

If you’re planning a lightweight build or want something more compact, CNHL also offers a range of 2S hard case packs in the 5200–8000mAh range. Shorty packs slide in easily, especially if you’re doing custom wiring or modding the tray.

We’ve already gathered the best options in one place—check out our RC10 1989 Stealth Car battery collection. Every battery was picked for size, plug compatibility, and era-appropriate vibes.

One Last Thought

No GPS. No gyro. No excuses. This isn’t nostalgia—it’s a portal back to raw racing. A chance to go back to an era with no gyros, no GPS, just raw driving and pure tuning skill.

How you bring it to life is entirely up to you. And your battery? That’s the first thing people will feel when the tires hit dirt. Choose right, and it won’t just run smooth—it’ll show up like Masami did in ’89, making the whole pit fall silent.

Quick Battery Q&A

Will modern 2S LiPo batteries fit the RC10 chassis?
Most of them will. Packs like the CNHL 6600mAh are standard-sized, hard-cased, and drop right in. If you’ve added a top deck or oversized motor, just double-check the clearance first.

Does it have to be a hard case battery?
No question—go with a hard case. The old RC10 leaves your battery wide open, and a soft pack just isn’t worth the risk. The RC10’s open tub chassis leaves the battery exposed, so a hard case is your safety net. Every CNHL battery we recommend here is hard-cased by default—we’ve got your back.

Can this car really race, or is it just for collectors?
Oh, it can race—big time. People are already entering these in vintage racing classes worldwide. Pair it with a modern ESC and a solid 2S LiPo, and it’ll still tear up the track. Not every re-release gets that privilege.