What Makes the Right Battery for QUAKE 223S?
The QUAKE 223S isn’t your average 2WD monster truck. It comes brushless right out of the box, built for speed and punishment. But to really unlock what this thing can do, you’ve got to pair it with a battery that’s just as serious. Low C-rate or soft-case packs just don’t cut it when you're pushing 3S power through a 4000Kv motor. You want high discharge, solid build, and perfect tray fit.
So What Do We Run?
We’ve tested a bunch, and we keep coming back to two batteries that just work — hard. Whether you're bashing in the backyard or tearing up asphalt, we’ve bashed these CNHL packs through dirt, gravel, and heat — they don’t get hot, we’ve bashed these CNHL packs through dirt, gravel, and summer heat. What stands out is consistency — strong punch, stable voltage, and no mid-run drop-offs even under 3S loads. :
- CNHL Racing Series 5600mAh 7.4V 2S 120C with EC5 Plug – Our go-to for new drivers or anyone who wants runtime and throttle control without sacrificing power.
- CNHL Racing Series 5600mAh 11.1V 3S 120C with EC5 Plug – If your goal is full send, this is the pack that’ll put the QUAKE into warp drive. Hold on tight.
Will They Fit?
Yes — they fit the QUAKE 223S battery tray (140mm × 50mm × 35mm), and both packs connect directly via EC5 with no adapters required.
That said, expect a snug fit — which is normal for high-capacity hard case packs in this platform. Many owners install the battery first, then slide the tray into place for easier positioning. No permanent modifications required.
Real-World 3S Fitment Notes
One thing we noticed quickly during testing: the QUAKE 223S battery tray is tighter in real-world use than the official dimensions suggest — especially once you start running larger hard case 3S packs.
The battery itself usually isn’t the main problem. Most of the tightness comes from the ESC connector and wire routing inside the compartment. Once everything is plugged in, space disappears fast.
What worked best for us was removing the small battery cap piece between the ESC and cooling fan (two screws), then routing the battery wires upward through the opening instead of forcing everything down into the tray. With the wiring moved outside the compartment, larger 3S packs fit much more naturally.
No cutting. No permanent modifications. Just a cleaner setup that makes high-capacity 3S batteries much easier to run.
And honestly? Once the QUAKE is running properly on a strong 3S pack, it completely changes personality. At that point, it stops feeling like a beginner monster truck and starts feeling like a GORGON that spent the winter in the gym.
2S or 3S – What Should You Feed the Beast?
Think of 2S as smooth and controllable — ideal for beginners, kids, or just long, chill bash sessions. 3S? That’s when you’re ready for full throttle runs, wheelies on command, and maybe even outrunning your buddy’s 4WD rig. The QUAKE is built for both — whether you want smooth and steady or full-blast chaos, it’s ready when you are.
Still Running a GORGON?
Look, we get it — the GORGON is a solid entry truck. But the QUAKE 223S isn’t just a GORGON with a new body. It’s a full upgrade: factory brushless, better electronics, clipless body, DSC built in. Read our full comparison and see why most GORGON owners are switching — or wish they had.
Need More Battery Tips?
We’ve put together a full blog with setup advice, runtime estimates, and what to expect when going from 2S to 3S on the QUAKE. Check it out here if you’re still on the fence.
