FMS Ford F-100 Brushless RS Review: Great Looks, Better on 3S, and Why It Still Lives in the Quake Shadow

If the question is whether the FMS Ford F-100 Brushless RS looks good, the answer is easy. It absolutely does. The licensed Ford body, the old-school proportions, the retro paint themes, and the shelf appeal all hit immediately. If the question is whether it becomes the obvious performance-first answer in the 1/10 2WD basher space, the answer is no. This truck makes the most sense as a retro, style-led, mod-friendly basher that becomes noticeably more enjoyable on 3S.

That is the most useful starting point for understanding this platform. On 2S, it feels calmer and easier, but also slightly held back. On 3S, it finally starts to show the wheelie-happy, loose, entertaining brushless attitude that people are probably hoping for when they see a licensed Ford F-100 monster truck with big tires and a wheelie bar in the box. It still has limitations, but 3S reveals far more of the truck’s real personality.

For anyone who wants to start with the right packs from day one, the easiest next step is the recommended LiPo battery collection for the FMS Ford F-100 Brushless RS, where the setup is already narrowed down to sensible XT60 2S and 3S options.

What kind of RC truck is the FMS Ford F-100 Brushless RS, really?

The easiest mistake is to judge this truck as though it exists only to win a raw performance argument. That is not really what makes it interesting. The FMS Ford F-100 Brushless RS feels more like a retro-flavored hobby basher with licensed styling and real visual identity than a pure numbers-first monster truck. That is important, because many people are not deciding between this truck and a blank performance shell. They are deciding between this truck and something more generic but more proven.

This is why reactions to the F-100 tend to split so quickly. Drivers who care most about handling, stability, and durability under abuse often see its weaknesses early. Drivers who care about the licensed Ford body, the old-school stance, and the idea of owning a truck with real visual charm often see those same compromises as acceptable trade-offs. In practice, this truck does not feel like a pure track weapon or a no-thought extreme basher. It feels closer to a backyard-friendly, style-first retro basher that invites tinkering.

Why the body matters more here than on most bashers

The licensed Ford shell is not a small bonus on this truck. For many people, it is the reason the truck makes sense at all. The dentside body lines, the chrome-style trim, the retro graphics, and the classic proportions give it something most modern bashers do not have: presence. Plenty of RC trucks look aggressive. Far fewer look memorable before they ever turn a wheel.

That is why so many drivers keep coming back to the same basic conclusion: the FMS wins on looks much more easily than it wins on performance. And that is not a meaningless point. In this segment, a lot of people are not trying to win a lap-time conversation. They want something enjoyable to drive, satisfying to look at, and worth pulling off the shelf again. The F-100 understands that part of the hobby very well.

That also explains why some owners are perfectly happy choosing it even after seeing stronger out-of-box alternatives. They are not buying a result on paper. They are buying a truck they actually want to own.

Brushless system, layout, and why the basics are still promising

On paper, the fundamentals are decent. The truck uses a Hobbywing 3652 3300KV brushless motor, a 60A brushless ESC, an XT60 connector, and a 2WD rear-drive platform with the motor positioned ahead of the rear axle. That motor-forward arrangement matters. Compared with traditional rear-heavy 2WD monster truck layouts, this configuration at least gives the truck a better chance of feeling more balanced and less old-fashioned once the speed comes up.

The rest of the truck keeps things simple. Long-travel shocks, accessible packaging, and a straightforward chassis layout make it easy to understand and easy to work on. That simplicity is genuinely attractive. For hobbyists who like to tune, repair, or gradually improve what they own, the F-100 feels refreshingly honest rather than overcomplicated.

That simplicity is also why battery choice matters so much. A truck like this does not need an exotic pack. It needs the right voltage, a clean fit, and a setup that supports its actual behavior on the ground. That is why practical XT60 choices like the CNHL 3300mAh 7.4V 2S 40C LiPo Battery with XT60 Plug and CNHL Lightning LiHV 3500mAh 11.4V 3S 120C HV Shorty LiPo Battery with XT60 Plug make practical sense here.

2S vs 3S: which setup actually suits the FMS Ford F-100 Brushless RS?

The most useful real-world conclusion is straightforward: 2S works, but 3S is what makes the truck feel properly alive. On 2S, the F-100 is easier, milder, and more beginner-friendly. That can be a good thing if the truck is being driven in a smaller area, shared with a newer driver, or used in a more relaxed backyard-bashing way. There is nothing wrong with 2S here. It simply does not bring out the truck’s most interesting side.

On 3S, the truck wakes up. Acceleration improves, the front gets lighter more easily, jumps become more fun, and the truck develops the kind of lively, loose rear-drive character that people usually expect from a brushless monster truck. That is where the F-100 starts to justify itself more clearly as a hobby-grade basher rather than just a nice body over a decent chassis.

At the same time, 3S also exposes the truck’s weak points faster. If the front gets too light, steering authority becomes less convincing. If grip suddenly comes in, the truck can feel less settled than the best examples in this niche. In other words, 3S gives the truck more life, but it also removes some of the excuses.

Why the Arrma Quake still stays in the conversation

It is impossible to talk about the FMS Ford F-100 Brushless RS without the Arrma Quake appearing in the same sentence. Not because the two trucks are identical, but because people naturally end up comparing them. They sit close enough in price and category that the question comes up on its own: if both are on the table, why would someone choose the FMS instead of the Quake?

The honest answer is that the Quake still feels like the easier performance-first answer. It has become the reference point because it delivers the kind of fun-per-dollar experience that is hard to argue with. In similar real-world conditions, it tends to feel more sorted, more confidence-inspiring, and more ready to take abuse without asking the owner to explain away the rough edges.

That does not mean the FMS has no reason to exist. It means the reason is different. The Quake is the more obvious answer if performance is the whole buying decision. The FMS makes sense if style, licensed body appeal, and retro character matter enough to outweigh the gap. That distinction is important, because it keeps the review honest.

In fact, one of the most revealing ways to understand the FMS is this: if the Quake did not exist, the Ford would probably be judged more generously. On its own, it is easy to see why people would call it good-looking, fun, and generally enjoyable. It just happens to live next to a very strong benchmark, and that changes the conversation.

The weak points feel real, not theoretical

This is where the F-100 starts to lose ground. Its issues are not just theoretical spec-sheet concerns. They show up in the kind of places hobbyists notice quickly: the way the truck tracks on loose surfaces, the way the front can feel light once the rear hooks up, the way air control feels less convincing than hoped, and the way hard driving can expose a truck that still feels a little unfinished around the edges.

Some of those rough edges are cosmetic. Body graphics and small trim details do not always inspire total confidence if the truck is driven the way a monster truck invites you to drive it. Some of them are mechanical or practical. Out of the box, this does not feel like the most polished or most overbuilt truck in the segment. It feels like a truck with a strong theme, a decent base, and a few areas where the owner may quickly start planning improvements.

That is why community feedback around this platform often sounds less like “this is terrible” and more like “this could be better with a few changes.” That is actually an important distinction. People are not rejecting the idea of the truck. They are reacting to the difference between how good it looks and how sorted it feels out of the box.

Gyro, tires, foams, and front-end balance: why owners immediately think about upgrades

One of the clearest patterns around this truck is how quickly the conversation shifts toward setup changes. That tells its own story. When a platform arrives already feeling fully sorted, owners talk mostly about where they drove it. When a platform feels close but not quite there, owners start talking about what they would change first.

With the F-100, the most common directions are easy to understand. A gyro makes sense if the goal is to improve straight-line confidence and reduce that raw, loose feeling when the front end starts to get light. Tires with better support or foam inserts make sense if the goal is to improve stability, response, and the overall feel of the truck on surfaces where the stock setup struggles to stay composed. Front ballast or heavier wheel-and-tire combinations also make sense as tuning ideas because they target the same general issue: the truck can feel too eager to unload the front end when rear traction comes in.

This does not automatically make the truck bad. It just explains why many owners end up seeing it as a platform to tune rather than a truck that arrives already finished in the way the best bashers do.

Battery fit matters more than it first seems

The listed battery tray is roughly 152 x 49.5 x 30mm, which is a useful window for standard XT60 stick-style packs. On paper, that sounds simple enough. In practice, battery fit is not only about whether a pack technically slides into the tray. Pack thickness, case shape, and how securely the battery sits all matter here.

Slimmer packs can need extra foam support, and that is not a trivial detail. A battery that technically fits but moves too much is not really the right battery for this truck. A sensible, secure fit is worth more than squeezing in a pack that only works on paper. That is one reason the standard-format CNHL 3300mAh 7.4V 2S 40C XT60 and CNHL 3300mAh 11.1V 3S 40C XT60 packs feel like the more intuitive starting points, while the 3200mAh and 3500mAh Lightning LiHV 3S shorty packs feel more like sharper-response options for people who specifically want that direction.

That is also why it makes more sense to choose a battery that suits the truck’s personality than to simply chase the most aggressive spec. This platform benefits from a pack that fits cleanly, stays planted, and works with the truck rather than turning every weakness up another notch.

Is it durable enough for hard bashing?

The fair answer is that this is not the truck to treat like a no-consequence extreme basher. It can absolutely be fun. It can jump. It can wheelie. It can take the kind of driving most people will realistically throw at it. But it does not give the same impression of shrugging off ugly use without complaint that the strongest bashers do.

That matters because this truck visually invites a certain type of driving. It looks like the kind of machine that should love chaotic throttle inputs, rough landings, and all-day abuse. In reality, expectations need to be a little more measured. This truck makes more sense when the goal is fun, not punishment testing.

That is another reason battery choice matters. A well-matched 3S pack can make the truck exciting. A careless setup combined with repeated rough driving can also reveal the platform’s limits quickly. It is better to think in terms of “bringing the truck alive” than “turning it into something it is not.”

Who should actually buy the FMS Ford F-100 Brushless RS?

This truck makes the most sense for people who care about licensed Ford styling, retro monster truck identity, and a mod-friendly hobby platform more than out-of-box category dominance. If the appeal starts with the body and then continues into the idea of tuning the truck into something more personal, the F-100 is easy to understand.

It makes less sense for people who want the strongest value-for-money performance answer, the most settled handling, or the highest confidence when the truck is pushed hard in rough conditions. That people is more likely to care about the result than the theme, and that is where the Ford becomes harder to justify.

Put simply, the FMS is the truck you buy with your eyes first and tune later; the Quake is the truck you buy with your priorities already decided.

Final verdict

The FMS Ford F-100 Brushless RS is one of the most attractive retro 2WD RC trucks in this price and size range. It has a real identity, and that matters. The licensed Ford body is not just decoration. It is a major part of the truck’s value.

But the rest of the truck does not quite dominate the way the body does. On 2S, it is easy enough to drive but slightly underwhelming. On 3S, it becomes much more entertaining and much closer to the brushless monster truck experience most owners actually want. That is the setup direction that makes the most sense for the platform, as long as expectations stay realistic.

The best way to understand the truck is not as a new king of the category, but as a licensed, retro, style-first basher with real charm and clear tuning potential. If that sounds like your kind of RC, starting with the right battery makes a big difference. The easiest place to begin is the FMS Ford F-100 Brushless RS battery collection here.

FAQ

Is the FMS Ford F-100 Brushless RS better on 2S or 3S?
For most owners, 3S is the better match because it gives the truck more punch, more jump energy, and a more entertaining brushless feel. 2S is easier and calmer, which can suit newer drivers or smaller spaces.

What battery connector does the truck use?
It uses an XT60 connector, so XT60 LiPo packs are the most direct fit.

What battery size should I look for?
The tray is listed at around 152 x 49.5 x 30mm, so standard stick-style packs are the most natural starting point.

Are shorty packs a good idea for this truck?
They can work, especially if the goal is a lighter-feeling or sharper-response 3S setup, but they are less “default” than standard-format packs and may need more attention to fit and retention.

Does the FMS Ford F-100 Brushless RS beat the Arrma Quake?
Not as a general performance-first answer. The Quake still makes more sense for people who care mostly about out-of-box capability. The FMS makes its case through licensed looks, retro style, and the appeal of a truck that many owners will enjoy tuning.